Checking out the surf report online before going out tomorrow!
I haven’t surfed in over 5 or 6 years. I have a 9-0, some short boards I inherited from friends who migrated (and never returned) to Kite-boarding, and I finally ditched the empty spot on my roof-rack for another bike rack..
So why now? I’m not sure! Maybe it’s the 80-degree weather we are having!
But looking at this report, it is the best time to get back in the water: waves are not too intense and not too flat. The length between waves is longer than 12 seconds, so that means more hang time 😉 The weather isn’t too bad either, so not a lot of choppy surface trauma.
I used to surf every day. Like beach bum-addict, I’d watch surf for a half hour and then move up or down the coast in search of more consistent swells.
Sometimes, I think that I convinced myself that I was bored, cold, or I wasn’t aggressive enough to get waves ,especially on new beaches. And then, perhaps, cycling up and down hills sort of took over. 😉
Well, I’m going to try again tomorrow. I bought some Surf wax for $3.03, pulled out my wetsuit, found some gloves, and figured out how to transport my board in my husband’s truck. Thankfully, I already made the huge investment of board, suit before-hand! I don’t think I’d be able to impulse buy this kind of equipment, now!
It was an impulse upon impulse. I drove from SF to a place called Pacifica, walked into a surf shop, some kid suggested the best board (like the Aprilia of surfboards) and a suit. I pretty much spent my whole months paycheck in one credit charge.. !
But, it was worth it! I’ve only repaired my surfboard once and added a faster fin, when I finally learned how to ride it!
Let’s just say, I needed a “Honda Rebel” version of surfboard!